Everything is fine. We’re relaxing in Port McNeill. This post is dedicated to Jack the Skipper. In the tradition of “Go Simple, Go Small but Go Now,” he set the departure date of May 15th. Endless preparation is dumb. Our shakedown cruise was a speedy, rough, and exhilarating 5-day passage from Port Townsend to the municipal dock here. Port McNeil is perfectly placed for over-the-water explorations to Malcolm Island, Alert Bay and the U’mista Cultural Center, and the Broughton Archipelago. What’s more, there is land transit access to remote communities of the west coast of Vancouver Island and the hiking trails of Cape Scott Provincial Park.
I strolled onto the ferry that docks a hundred yards from Morning Light and 25 minutes later was strolling the peaceful streets and roads of Sointula.
The first thing you notice is the fences
Subtle paintings capture all the stages of a salmon’s life. 
Wolves shout at the moon on this gate. 
Pickets can hardly contain the blossoms of the central BC coast in May. 
Fisher folk must live here, too. 
This fence is topped with the floats of a gillnet. 
Finnish pride in woodworking skill is something to show off. 
But look! That lattice freize is made of net floats strung vertically. 
This fence offers a polished peek at the lawn and sea beyond. 
A collection of old glass utility pole insulators tops fence behind an adorable woodshed. 
A simple rambling fence -perhaps of a boatbuilder – welcomes with a heart-shaped trunk slice. 
A found fence of drift wood doubles as a bench at the village café. 
Driftwood stars as an evergreen that marks an art studio.
Sointula History I’m feeling lazy today, so I said to GPTchat, “Please write an introduction to the history of Sointula, British Columbia of not more than 300 words.” What I got is a bit flowery, but I spent an hour in the local library reading this history and this seems dead on. Landed immigrants from the United States arrived during the Vietnam disaster and fit right in.
Sointula, a picturesque community nestled on Malcolm Island in British Columbia, Canada, boasts a rich history rooted in idealism, resilience, and cooperative values. The name “Sointula” itself translates to “Place of Harmony” in Finnish, reflecting the Finnish utopian origins that shaped the town’s unique character.
The story of Sointula begins in the late 19th century when a charismatic Finnish philosopher, economist, and labor activist named Matti Kurikka sought to establish a utopian society away from the social and economic unrest prevalent in his homeland. Inspired by the principles of cooperation and equality, Kurikka envisioned a harmonious community where members could live in solidarity and work collectively towards their shared prosperity.
In 1901, Kurikka’s vision came to fruition as he led a group of like-minded Finnish immigrants to the rugged shores of Malcolm Island. This diverse group of pioneers, comprising workers, intellectuals, and idealists, set about transforming the untamed wilderness into a thriving settlement. The settlers established cooperative enterprises, including logging, fishing, and farming, to sustain their community and promote self-sufficiency.
Despite numerous challenges, including isolation, economic hardships, and the ravages of nature, the people of Sointula persevered. They created a close-knit society characterized by communal decision-making, mutual aid, and a strong sense of solidarity. Education and culture were highly valued, and the town boasted schools, libraries, and theaters that enriched the lives of its residents.
Over the years, Sointula has evolved, embracing modernity while preserving its cooperative heritage. The town has become a haven for artists, nature enthusiasts, and those seeking a slower pace of life. Its breathtaking natural surroundings, with pristine forests, abundant wildlife, and stunning coastal vistas, continue to captivate visitors from far and wide.
Today, Sointula stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of its founders and the power of collective endeavor. It serves as a reminder that a community built on principles of cooperation and harmony can transcend time and remain an inspiring example of human aspiration.
A Visit to the Cemetery Nothing like a cemetary to flesh out the texture of a place. This one is well-loved and lies at the end of short walk along the waterfront.
Sointula’s Working Waterfront Traditional craftsmanship survives here. The Tarkenen Marine Ways are widely known and were very busy when I visited. Boats are winched out of the water on rails, a low tech system along the BC coast that I don’t fully understand. (In Alaska, where spring tidal exchanges are 25 feet or more, this system gives way to tidal grids, platforms onto which boat float during a high tide.)
Views across Broughton Strait. This park adjacent to the cemetary is a meditation on harmony. It offers views of the high peaks of Vancouver Island and stories of the people of Sointula past and present. Their collective garden with large greenhouses feeds households with early starts and the larger community with regular harvests.
Village Center The village center is clustered around the ferry terminal. It’s anchored by the Sointula Co-operative, which is the first in in the province and has been in continuous operation since 1909. The building houses a grocery store with many local products and housewares. Silly of me not to have taken a photo. The tiny Co-op gas is across the street and the Co-op hardwar is at the port. There’s a funky hotel and several B & B’s. The Visitors Centre provides resources to everyone. Local crafts are sold with the markers taking all. I resisted the temptation of bundles of 2 to 4 hand-carved spoons and spatulas selling for $10 to $15. A self-pay market out front proffers veggies, herbs, garden starts, and refrigerated fresh eggs 24/7.
Leave a Reply