Lying between two sets of the most formidable rapids on the BC Coast, Shoal Bay is a welcome break edged with expectation.  We’d substituted Seymour Narrows for the first set but needed transit of those to the north.  Our departure under splendid skies was timed for low water slack at Green Point Rapids but as there is some distance to Whirlpool Rapids we had to wait for the high water slack there.  So we had time to move against the flood in  Chancellor Channel and into a little cove on Wellbore Channel where we had waited out the four or five hours to slack once before.  
But what a difference it was this time! The green surface of the water mirrored the steep, pine-covered slopes on either side but not because it was calm.  Rather the glasslike surface was an unbroken series of whirlpools, which failed to even acknowledge the gusts of wind.
Eventually we dropped anchor near an intriguing old wooden trolling vessel, the lone fisherman already at work making repairs to his boat. As the winds gusted, the anchor finally grabbed when we got out 225 feet of chain.  Still, one of us stayed on the sun drenched deck watching the deer on the beach as we spun. often we’d be going clockwise while the fellow boat went counter.  Very interesting indeed.
At slack we motored quickly through and ten minutes later were tucked away in the tiny Forward Harbor just beyond.

Lying between two sets of the most formidable rapids on the BC Coast, Shoal Bay is a welcome break edged with expectation.  We’d substituted Seymour Narrows for the first set but needed transit of those to the north.  Our departure under splendid skies was timed for low water slack at Green Point Rapids but as there is some distance to Whirlpool Rapids we had to wait for the high water slack there.  So we had time to move against the flood in  Chancellor Channel and into a little cove on Wellbore Channel where we had waited out the four or five hours to slack once before.  

But what a difference it was this time! The green surface of the water mirrored the steep, pine-covered slopes on either side, but not because it was calm.  Rather, the glasslike surface was an unbroken series of whirlpools, which failed to even acknowledge the gusts of wind.

Eventually, we dropped anchor near an intriguing old wooden trolling vessel, the lone fisherman already at work making repairs to his boat. As the winds gusted, the anchor finally grabbed when we got out 225 feet of chain.  Still, one of us stayed on the sun-drenched deck watching the deer on the beach as we spun. Often, we’d be going clockwise while the fellow boat went counterclockwise.  Very interesting indeed.

At slack, we both motored quickly through and ten minutes later were tucked away in the tiny Forward Harbor just beyond.

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3 responses to “Navigation: Reflections on Whirlpools”

  1. WOW, how cool!

  2. […] of the Wrangell purse seiners, we peppered seiners with questions.  Trollers were everywhere, from the lovely antique double ender in whose company we negotiated Green Rapids to the dozens in Hoonah Harbor.  Our favorite boats […]

  3. […] checked and rechecked the times of slack for both Whirlpool and Green Point Rapids but in the end tide and time mean a wait for vigilant sailors.  We spent a long afternoon in a […]

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